Axial Wraith – Consider The Online Shops Which Stock The Most Budget Friendly Axial Wraith.

The world of RC has lots of different facets; there’s really something for all. One of many areas I’ve set my sights on mastering is definitely the drift segment. It basically goes against everything I’ve learned when it comes to driving sliding surpasses grip, more power does not always mean a quicker vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic surpasses rubber. So when 3Racing sent over their Axial Wraith, I needed to scoop one around see what all the hoopla was using this drifter.

Instantly

WHO Will Make It: 3Racing

WHO IT’S FOR: Any degree of drift enthusiast

PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD

Just How Much: $115.00

BUILD TYPE: Kit

PROS

• AWD for convenient learning ?

• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?

• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?

• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?

• Battery positioning before the motor or about the rear diffuser ?

• Aluminum motor mount ?

• Threaded shocks ?Plenty of tuning adjustment ?

• Extremely affordable pric

CONS

• Front drive belt slips from the roller bearing

REVIEWER’S OPINION

This drifter has a great deal opting for it; well manufactured, lots of pretty aluminum and rolls in at the very affordable price. Handling is nice at the same time once you get accustomed to the kit setup, and it also accepts an extremely great deal of body styles. There’s also a bunch of tunability for people who want to tinker, which means this car should grow along with you as the skills do.

FEATURE BREAKDOWN

The D4’s chassis is a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. It has cutouts at the base for your front and back diffs to peek through in addition to a bazillion countersunk holes. A large number of are used for mounting things like the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but there are quite a few left empty. They may be helpful to control chassis flex, however, not with all the stock top deck; an optional you need to be bought. The design is comparable to an ordinary touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system and ultimately the rear bulkhead/ suspension. Things are all readily accessible and replaceable with just a couple of turns of some screws.

? Apart from a few interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is very similar to a touring car’s. An individual A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are utilized, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to boost them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The rear suspension uses vertical ball studs to deal with camber and roll while the front uses an appealing, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This technique allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on lower and upper pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and enables some extreme camber settings.

? One important thing that’s pretty amazing with drift cars will be the serious quantity of steering throw they have got. Starting with the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart so that as close to the edges of your chassis as is possible. This produces a massive 65° angle, enough to regulate the D4 in the deepest of slides. Since drifters spend almost all of their time sideways, I needed a good servo to take care of the constant countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.

While not needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to keep up with any steering angle changes I need it a moment’s notice.

? The D4 uses a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. A huge, 92T 48P spur is linked to the central gear shaft, the location where the front and rear belts meet. Pulleys retain the front belt high on top of the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the energy to the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to enable the use of a assortment of different wheel and tire combos.

? To provide the D4 a little bit of beauty, I opted for 3Racing Mini-Z parts body from ABC Hobby. This can be a beautiful replica on this car and included a slick list of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure how to paint it, but I do remember a technique I used quite some time back that got some attention. So, I gave the RX-3 an attempt of pearl white around the underside, but painted the fenders black on the outside. After everything was dry, I shot the exterior using a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I love the last result … and it also was easy. That’s good because I’m a really impatient painter!

Around The TRACK

With this test, I had the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter upon the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I was heading there to do a photo shoot for an additional vehicle and thought, heck, why not take it along and obtain some sideways action?

STEERING

The steering on the D4 is pretty amazing. While I mentioned earlier, the throw is actually a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference from the parts. Including the CVD’s can turn that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. Even though it does look just a little funny using the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does an incredible job of keeping the slide controlled and transferring the correct direction. This can be, partly, because of the awesome handling from the D4, but also the speedy Futaba servo.

ACCELERATION/BRAKING

Drifting is just not about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I know that sounds odd, but once you’ve mastered the wheel speed of the drifter, you are able to control the angle of attack and also the sideways motion through any corner. I stumbled upon Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to perform that make controlled, smooth throttle adjustments to affect the angle from the D4 when and where I needed. Sliding in a little shallow? Increase the throttle to get the tail end to whip out. Beginning to over cook the corner? Ease up a lttle bit and also the D4 would get back in line. It’s all a point of ? nesse, as well as the Novak system is made for that. I did so need to be a bit creative with all the install of your system as a result of only a little space in the chassis, but overall it determined great.

HANDLING

After driving hooked up touring cars for some time, it does require a little becoming accustomed to knowing that an automobile losing grip and sliding is the right way across the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control after you obtain it, it’s beautiful. Getting a car and pitching it sideways by way of a sweeper, while keeping the nose pointed in at under two or three inches from your curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled uncontrollable thing, as well as the D4 can it wonderfully. The kit setup is nice, but if you are as if you need more of something anything there’s lots of things to adjust. I just enjoyed the car together with the kit setup and it also was just a matter of battery power pack or two before I found myself swinging the back throughout the hairpins, across the carousel and back and forth throughout the chicane. I never had a chance to strap battery around the diffuser, but that’s something I’m eager for.

DURABILITY

There’s not much you can do to damage a drift car they’re really not going all that fast. I have done, however, provide an problem with the front belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the peak deck. Through the initial run, it suddenly felt just like the D4 acquired a bit drag brake. I kept from it, looking to overcome the problem with driving, but soon was required to RPM Team losi parts it straight into actually check it out. In the build, the belt slips in a plastic ‘tunnel’ that may be maintained by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted stuff like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square in the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, once the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide from the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it will come in contact with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura a lengthier screw with a number of 1mm shims to space the bearing out a little more. Problem solved.